There is something about the bow tie which brings out the most extraordinary reactions in people. It is both masculine and feminine; it represents nobility and servitude, intelligence and arrogance. For a fashion accessory or ornament, it meets incomparable connotations, both positive and negative. The bow tie is the symbol of a lost generation, a style that shows the elegance of past times. I hope to achieve a better understanding of where the negative connotations of the bow tie came from, and what exactly was to blame.
Here is a short history of the bow tie:
During the French Revolution, cravats and ‘jabots’ flourished. They were worn extremely big over the top of their large stiff collars. This was known as a “incroyable” fashion. This exaggerated dress reformed by the early 19th century, giving way to the flawlessness of the Romantics. It was at this time that neckwear started to become the most important feature of the male dress. The cravat was by this stage, almost an art form and often related to the famous dandy Beau Brummell.
(One of the most famous Dandies, Oscar Wilde from http://www.manolomen.com/)
There were books published about different ways to tie a cravat and the art of cravat tying. After the peak of the Romantic period, the importance of the cravat faded, giving way to the collar. This is where the birth of the modern neck tie took over from the bow tie. After World War 1, the bow tie began to be worn again, but for more formal occasions, often with evening clothing or a tuxedo.
The modern day connotations of wearing a bowtie are incredibly confused. While the bowtie is often related to the preppy culture in America, or the Southern aristocrats, it is also seen as a stunt accessory for comedians and magicians. The author of popular book ‘Dress for Success’ John T Malloy was quoted saying “If you wear a bow tie, you will never be taken seriously and no one will ever trust you with important business”. There is no evidence that this statement is true, but it seems to be a popular attitude. What is it about the bow tie which gives people the impression that you cannot be taken seriously? I blame the clown. I also blame the magician pretending to pull rabbits out of a hat.
(http://www.izzys-party-shop.com/)
Once the bow tie was adopted as a costume for such novelty professions, it lost its charm. It lost its sense of elegance and mystery. If a clown at a 5 year olds birthday party is wearing a giant novelty bow tie which squirts water, it is hardly what you would wear to work, or out on a date. The bow tie has been robbed of its right to be at the forefront of men’s fashion.
(http://www.razzamatazz.co.uk/)
Once the fashionable start to pick up on the bow tie, it will hopefully move away from the novelty stunt toy it has become.
Often the term ‘bow tie wearing’ is seen as a slur, instead of a mere observation. People have noted that wearing a bow tie will give people the impression you are false or even a thief. This idea is ridiculous, I really don't understand where people are getting these ideas from. In an American poll, showing pictures of men with various types of neckwear, the bow tied men were voted least likely to be liked, least likely to be desired as a neighbor, officemate or friend, but then most likely to be smart. Where did the idea come from that wearing a bow tie will make people not like you? There must have been some terrible people throughout history that have b been known for wearing a bow tie and aren't very nice. I think the problem is that people are scared to do anything different, and once you wear something that isn't part of the everyday code of dress, it scares people.
The meaning of the bow tie has been further confused by its use related to pornography. The Playboy logo is of a bunny wearing a bowtie, seen as showing class and luxury, where the product it is actually advertising is neither luxurious nor classy. One of the most popular uses for the bow tie is on a “sexy bunny” outfit or on the neck of the local stripper at a hen’s or bucks night.
(http://www.how-to-tie-a-tie-video.com/)
Why is this? Who let these people adopt the bow tie as their own? I guess they realized that they needed to give their industry a little more class, a little more elegance and by adopting what was once seen as the class symbol for generations past, they thought they could pull off a certain appearance. What they actually did was take the bow tie out of its once elegant context, and created a new cheap reputation for it. It is much the same for the hospitality industry. The bow tie started being used to try to add an element of luxury to the service that was given. Both inudstries were trying to add a sense of glamous and elegance to their business, but it ended up donig exactly the opposite. Once the bow tie was seen on these industries, it really took away from the original meaning. It was a combination of the bow tie being seen less in the fashion industry, and its overuse in the sex and hospitality industries that led it its downfall. The bow tie was then reinterpreted and seen as a symbol of servitude and cheapness, which is the complete opposite of the elegance and nobility that it used to represent.
Wearing a bow tie has many advantages. Here are some of my favourite: -
- If you are eating or drinking, your tie will not be able to fall into your meal/drink.
- If gives people the impression you are individual in your fashion sense, even a rebel
- If you are a doctor or other surgeon, you can perform procedures and operations without wondering where your tie is falling
- Trends with lengths and widths of ties will always change, the bow tie remains classic
- An untied bowtie looks cool where a untied neck tie looks sloppy
- People will have something to remember you by
- Some of the most fantastic men wore bow ties including Frank Sinatra, Fred Estaire and fictional character James Bond.
I have some rules to pass on about wearing a bow tie. If you are going to wear a bow tie you have to do it right.
- The bow tie MUST be hand tied, none of that clip on rubbish. Part of the charm of the bow tie is its imperfection
- Bow ties are incredibly versatile, don’t just wear it with a suit or tuxedo. A bow tie can be matched with a more casual outfit, and used to smarten your look
- Don’t just stick to a black bow tie, this will automatically make you feel very stiff and formal. The best bow ties are coloured or patterned. Don’t go for anything too bright, and make sure to steer clear of logos or novelty prints. I never ever want to see a Christmas bow tie, or one with little men playing golf on it. Ew.
This year, House of Holland showed the world how NOT to wear a bow ties. They featured an unusually large tartan bow tie which was reminiscent of the clown seen above. Another fashion faux pas witnessed through House of Holland was this strange looking patterned velour ensemble with matching bow tie.
(http://www.style.com/)
I am not quite sure what they were thinking, but I don’t think they are doing much to help out the reputation of the bow tie. If anything they seem to be making it worse!
There have been some fantastic developments with the reputation of the bow tie in recent years. Certain designers have began to use the bow tie within their collections as a way to differentiate from the norm. I think they must have realized what they were missing out on. I have three main examples of this.
1. Ralph Lauren – Fall 2008. This collection showed most of the usual from Ralph Lauren, waistcoats, cardigans, vintage styles, tailored shorts and of course the bow tie.
(http://www.men.style.com/)
2. Tommy Hilfiger – Fall 2008. This collection was a fantastic mix of primary colours, luxurious fabrics, cool knits and heavily featured the bow tie.
(http://www.men.style.com/)
3. Alexis Mabille – Alexis is a fashion designer from France who after finishing his studies, worked fro Dior alongside Galliano and Slimane. He worked mostly on their accessories and costume jewelry lines until leaving to start his own brand. Alexis is on a mission to bring back the bow tie to the forefront of men’s fashion. His contemporary menswear and unisex ranges use interesting textures and fabrics to create a new modern look for the bow tie. His designs also incorporate other details such as buttons, chains and cords. He plays with size and scale throughout his designs, and also unconventional shapes for his bows. If this man continues to gain popularity, this might just be the push that men all over the world need, to begin to embrace the bow tie once again.
(http://www.selectism.com/)
In conclusion, I hope this will give you the motivation to join the crusade to bring back the bow tie. Don’t let anybody tell you that the bow tie is lame, or that it isn’t cool because it is. Nobody ever said that about James Bond when he wore a bow tie.